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Rainer Thoden

Apparel Designer & Product Developer

  • About
  • Portfolio
    • Design
    • Technical
    • All Projects
  • Individual Pcs
    • Design
    • Technical
  • Resume

COLORING LINESHEETS - Women's Fall 2023

DESIGN TEST - I created a mock capsule collection for Fall 2023.

This collection has 3 head-to-toe looks with each style coming in 2 colorways.

Colored linesheets show color & pattern information and need to be kept updated throughout the development process. When a design is finalized, the colored sketch will be uploaded into our PLM system.

* See this post for my design inspiration & color palette.

* See this post for my design hand-off materials showing style inspiration, fit & fabric direction.

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tags: Design, Women's, Color
Friday 12.10.21
Posted by Rainer Thoden
 

DESIGN HAND-OFF - Women's Fall 2023

DESIGN TEST - I created a mock capsule collection for Fall 2023.

Before all details are finalized and techpacks / BOMs are created, I will do an initial hand-off to Mech, PD & our Technical teams. Each style page shows a technical sketch, inspiration, fit direction, & fabric direction.

This way we can talk through any changes that need to happen before finalizing the details.

* See this post for my design inspiration & color palette.

* See this post for my colored line sheets.

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tags: Design, Technical, Women's
Friday 12.10.21
Posted by Rainer Thoden
 

INSPIRATION - Women's Fall 2023

DESIGN TEST: I created a mock capsule collection for Fall 2023, pulling inspiration from the brand’s own history of core khaki products.

* See this post for my design hand-off materials showing style inspiration, fit & fabric direction.

* See this post for my colored linesheets.

The Hero items in this collection are a Trucker Jacket and Cargo Pant made from a selvedge khaki twill fabric, creating a denim-inspired look with a khaki aesthetic.

FABRIC - Classic selvedge twill in an iconic khaki tone is paired with sumptuous and cozy Tencel softness. The result is a distinctive blend of durable and comfortable long-wearing clothing that feels both familiar and warm. Sustainable Tencel and Cotton fabrics align with the brand’s dedication to environmental responsibility.

COLOR - Reminiscent of the “DARK ACADEMIA” trend, colors are deep and murky with dusty khaki colors framed by comforting spice-tones. Emphasis is on dark khaki shades - like rich soil browns, bronze clays, and ashen drab. Warmth from turmeric, mahogany, cinnamon, and cedar complement the earthen khakis.

PATTERN - Classic preppy patterns like houndstooth and buffalo plaids give a nostalgic vibe that is reassuring in the post-pandemic climate. The intense colors give a dark twist to the traditional patterns. Layered on top of one another, pattern-mixing creates depth with an academic feel.

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tags: Design, Color, Women's, Casual
Friday 12.10.21
Posted by Rainer Thoden
 

DESIGN PROCESS - Trends, Color, Color Matrix, Style Matrix, Merch Board

WOMEN'S GOLF - FALL 2015

TREND & INSPIRATION BOARD: After conducting trend and market research, I created two distinct yet cohesive themes for this brand's two major deliveries.

COLOR PALETTE: Created to complement the two different delivery themes. A set of base colors matches to the fashion colors for both deliveries.

COLOR MATRIX: Once the color palette was finalized, I built the color matrix to go over color matching with the client and test their preferred matches. This cut down on the number of re-colorings that were needed.

STYLE MATRIX: Similar to a slot plan, but a visual representation. I created this design tool as a visual aid to make it easier for the merchandisers to plan how many silhouettes they were going to buy and how many style types they needed before I started designing styles. This cut down on the number of design revisions needed to achieve a collection that worked for their budget.

LINE SHEETS: I created and updated the line sheets throughout the development process to ensure that communication was clear in my own department, with the vendor, and with the buyer.

MERCHANDISING BOARD: I created these boards to represent how the collection would look on the floor next to the basic styles. It also helped ensure the customer had enough options to build outfits.

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View fullsize Maggie Lane F1 & F2 Color Matrix-01.png
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View fullsize ML F1 & F2 Style Matrix_PG 1png_Page1.png
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tags: Women's, Performance, Golf, Design
Friday 08.10.18
Posted by Rainer Thoden
 

TECHPACKS & COSTING - Women's RTW

I created this design based off a previous season style that needed an update. Inspired by the sunstone that is abundant in the Pacific Northwest, I designed embroidery detailing to mimic the geometric crystal patterns often found in gems.

COSTING WITH VENDORS: Techpacks must be sent out to vendors with all the necessary information to receive an accurate cost, including: target cost, correct duty classification, quantity, delivery, size range, graded specs. I also added colorways to the techpack for better communication during negotiation.

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tags: Technical, Techpack, Women's, RTW, Costing, Specs
Friday 08.10.18
Posted by Rainer Thoden
 

WOMEN'S ATHLEISURE: Merging Active + RTW

This collection was designed specifically to crossover from performance activewear to dressier sportswear that can be worn outside of the gym (or off the golf course). Called ATHLEISURE, this trend is still popular since comfort is paramount and customers want the convenience of garments that serve more than one purpose. Intended to be more than just another golf brand, we drew inspiration from Athletic brands, Sportswear brands, and upscale Fashion brands.

ATHLEISURE FABRICS: Fabric technology keeps getting better and this allows performance features to be added to garments without the usual dry and "plastic" feel of traditional athletic garments. For this collection, the fabrics create interesting textures using matte/shiny satin stretch-wovens, brushed buttery-soft knits, and layered/ruched detailing that is flattering and has a luxurious feel.

MERCHANDISE ASSORTMENT: In addition to larger scale views of each style, we created a board to show how the garments and color palette work together as a cohesive collection. This helped us narrow down the colorways and provided a visual for merchandisers.

FABRIC STORY: To save on cost, we broke this collection into a limited number of fabric stories with similar fabric qualities in different weights. This ensured the quality would be consistent and we could meet our target costs.

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tags: Design, Women's, RTW, Performance, Golf, Athleisure
Friday 08.10.18
Posted by Rainer Thoden
 

COSTING & STYLE TRACKERS - Women's Sleepwear SS18

When developing a collection, I break out all styles into "fabric programs". This way I can make sure I am combining fabrics and placing similar styles with the same vendor for better costing and less quality/color inconsistencies. 

Line sheets are used to present design and get a good feel of the delivery flow. But they often fail to give a clear picture of similar styles/fabrication and how many styles are being placed at each vendor. I developed these STYLE TRACKERS each season for better communication.

I used the style trackers when REVIEWING AND COMPARING BIDS and PRESENTING COST OPTIONS TO THE MERCHANDISING TEAM. Then after final vendor and order placement, I used the same trackers as WIPs to keep track of lab dips, submits, sample status and any updates. This allowed me to ensure we stayed on schedule for delivery.

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tags: Costing, Technical, Women's, Sleewear, WIP
Thursday 08.09.18
Posted by Rainer Thoden
 

DESIGN TEST - Women's Lingerie, Active, Loungewear - SS19

DESIGN EXERCISE FOR AN EXISTING LINGERIE BRAND:

I created COLOR PALETTE, THEME, and TREND boards by analyzing SS19 runway shows, online resources, new technology/innovations, and in-store market research.

I designed 3 original garments by incorporating research, innovation, and brand DNA.

  • CLASSIC 24/7 T-SHIRT BRA: I updated a classic by adding a sublimated print that would be smooth and not show through a t-shirt. I also added a performance wicking lining to keep the wearer dry and comfortable since this will be an oft-used staple.
  • INNOVATIVE SPORTS BRA: I combined trending features to make a sports bra more comfortable and give more support. Elastic straps at the front disperse strain while still supporting the bust. More coverage at the underarm helps avoid underarm bulge. Molded velcro closure at back gives more support and is easier to pull closed.
  • LOUNGE WEAR SET: This set is over-sized and uses very soft modal fabrics, which are trending in this market. A tropical watercolor-style print compliments the softness of the fabric. The loose-fit woven pants feature pockets that can take the pant from sleepwear to casual lounging. Taking the lead from other upscale sleep/lounge brands, wicking properties are added to the sleep top for comfort.
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tags: Design, Color, Women's, Sleepwear, Loungewear, Lingerie, Performance
Monday 08.06.18
Posted by Rainer Thoden
 

FROM DESIGN TO PRODUCTION - Techpacks, Prints, Color

WOMEN'S PERFORMANCE GOLF

DESIGN: I designed this collection for two separate deliveries that were distinct and yet also complemented each other. Each delivery was created with it's own COLOR PALETTE, THEME and PRINT artwork. Techpacks were created with print artwork, trims, BOM to make first proto samples. Merchandise boards were colored and presented to the buyers along with proto samples for final ordering.

PRINTS AND COLOR CONTROL: I utilized a combination of all-over repeats and engineered placement prints to give visual interest and allow items to merchandise back to others without being too similar. The PAISLEY ALLOVER PRINT at the yoke on the Short Sleeve Mock Neck matches to the ENGINEERED PAISLEY PRINT skort. I managed all strike-off and lab dip approvals closely to ensure that the prints matched each other and other solid fabrics.

PRINT MARKERS: I created print markers for the PAISLEY PRINT skort so we could maximize fabric usage and keep within the buyer's budget.

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tags: Design, Print, Color, Women's, Performance, Golf, Techpack, Technical
Sunday 08.05.18
Posted by Rainer Thoden
 

Designing a SWIMWEAR PRINT

WOMEN'S SWIM SPRING/SUMMER 2016

The inspiration behind this print was the spotted eagle ray and the way the bold pattern stands out against the sea. I created two colorways, pulling the blues and greens from the ocean and mixing them with the charcoal, black, and white spotted print. The print repeat is vector-based for ease of printing and controlling colors. Gradients in the background of the print mimic the sense of movement that you can see as the ray swims through the ocean. This print helped ground the line of the brand's launch and remained a best-seller that was used in more swimsuit designs and even men's swim trunks.

This print was showcased on the runway at SWIMIAMI in 2016.

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tags: Design, Print, Swimwear, Women's
Sunday 08.05.18
Posted by Rainer Thoden
 

Designing for Different Deliveries

WOMEN'S PERFORMANCE GOLF

For this brand, I designed two distinct deliveries so each delivery brought something new to the floor. I had to make them work as a cohesive collection since there would be time they sat on the floor together. Yet, each delivery had it's own THEME, featured PRINT pattern, and featured COLOR to work within the global palette.

PRINT DESIGN: The trending design aesthetic was a modern and clean feel with simplified and updated versions of more traditional prints, like florals and argyles. I created the GEO ARGYLE PATTERN by looking to traditional argyle golf sweaters and updating them for a more modern and geometric look. The result was a print reminiscent of golf traditions but a modern update that the wearer could get excited about.

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tags: Design, Print, Women's, Golf, Performance, Color
Sunday 08.05.18
Posted by Rainer Thoden
 

Revising Sketches After First Proto

WOMEN'S READY-TO-WEAR

Sketches, techpacks and specs were created based off initial design direction and presentations. But sometimes after the first proto fitting, the design and spec needs to be revised for a more flattering look or to create something closer to the original design intent.

Specs, patterns, and techpacks are revised and changes are conveyed to the manufacturer.

It is important that the new sketches are also revised to reflect the changes so there is consistency in the expectation between the buyer and manufacturer.

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tags: Design, Sketch, Women's, RTW
Friday 08.03.18
Posted by Rainer Thoden
 

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